In the epic blockbuster by Martin Scorsese, the 5 Points Area,  Chinatown & Foley Square sections of New York, were depicted as a formerly Irish ghetto, and even described as the worst area in the world by Charles Dickens (worse than Bombay, India) in his 1842 trip to America. The question I always ask when I see a supposed historically accurate movie is, “How true to life is this movie?”.

Well as a Tour Guides (“lobbygows” in Chinese) and historians let’s set the record straight! Firstly, the Scorcese movie was very accurate. Glaringly the only major inaccuracy was that most of the Gangs with colorful names like the Dead Rabbits, Bowery Boys, Plug Uglies, and Bandit Roosts, in the movie, were far too tall to be accurate. Liam Neeson  at  6’4 was totally inaccurate. For the record, the average predominantly Irish gang member was 5’3” and weighed 130 lbs.

The Irish had suffered many years of prejudice and discrimination from the neighboring English (U.K). The English have always in the past had ways to keep religions, cultures and nations subdued.  Just look at the Opium Wars and the Chinese, the Americans during the Revolution, and the Indians in India. The Penal laws of Ireland disallowed most freedoms to the Irish. Historically the Irish were so oppressed by the English, they were not allowed the opportunity to learn to read, religion was restricted and even dancing was prohibited.

A fascinating manifestation of disallowing dance is the Irish Step Dance. (Remember “ Lord of the Dance”!!) The Irish were so prohibited that in lieu of dancing they would stand behind fences with their arms held towards their sides and danced below their waists only. Visualize the movement and notice the lower body movements and hands held closely to their side. This allowed the celebration of dance to go without notice by the English overseers.

But let’s concentrate on the Irish of the “5 Points.” They were predominantly illiterate, in their lower economic classes, coming to America during the potato famine years of the 1840’s. Hedge schools did provide some education by the church clergy to the affluent Irish, but these clergymen risked deportation if they got caught.

However, the movie only slightly touches on the many proud Irish who fought incredible adversity to forge a better life. Many African-Americans,  Jews, and Eastern Europeans are totally unaware of the prejudice Irish Americans suffered when they first arrived in America.  Signs like, “NO IRISH NEED APPLY”, appeared after the first few waves of  immigration.  Jobs were virtually impossible to get without some education. The Erie Canal and Transcontinental Railroad was almost all Irish immigrants laboring at lower wages than the most menial laborers. Gangs were a support mechanism for a proud and hard working culture.
 
Today the former “5 Points” is located by Columbus Park – bordering Mulberry Street, Worth Street and the Foley Square municipal area. Little remains of the old Collect Pond Swamp which ran through the area and, that due to poorly filled land, caused buildings to sink and emit terrible odors from these dilapidated and unhealthy buildings.

But the “Gangs of New York” and the 1863 draft riot did not do justice to the law abiding and sacrificing people, the thousands of Irish who scraped together every cent in an effort to get friends and relatives over to the “promised land”. Unfortunately, there aren’t any present day reminders of these New York street gangs, but try the area of the city where you overlook the United Nations and the East River called Tudor City. This Shangri-La type neighborhood, in this quaint oasis off 42nd street, has some of these remnants. One of its historic buildings has an old English inscription on it, reminding us of the days in the 1880’s, that Irish gangs, led by Paddy Corcoran’s Roost’s Gang, bashed the heads of the cattle drivers while leading their cattle to slaughter houses where the United Nations now stands.

Back in Chinatown, nothing remains except a bend on Mulberry Street, which once housed the Bandit Roost, a notorious and vicious gang of hooligans.  While down here walk up the small street called Mosco to the church on the corner of Mott.
The Transfiguration Church is a transitional one that has seen poor Irish, early Italians and finally today’s Chinese as worshippers. Early Italian congregants who worshipped were Jimmy Durante,  Mother Cabrini and Enrico Caruso.

Definitely stop to shop, eat and browse while on Mott Street.  For a fabulous culinary treat, try the Peking Duck House for the best Peking duck around.

The preparation takes 2 days where the fat is almost completely removed and the dish is carved in front of you.  It is served with Moo Shu soft tortillas, hoisin sauce, scallions and cucumbers. This $36 dish is incredible. Though pricey for Chinatown, it serves 4 people easily.

So visit Chinatown and remember how it must have been. Enjoy the food.
Good eating, and good shopping

Till next week!